8-Day Scotland Itinerary - Edinburgh & the Scottish Highlands

In this episode, Tyla takes you on an unforgettable eight-day journey through Scotland, combining the medieval magic of Edinburgh with the wild, dramatic beauty of the Scottish Highlands. She shares a thoughtfully crafted itinerary that flows intentionally from one breathtaking location to the next, balancing iconic must-see sights with those quiet, still moments in nature that make Scotland truly unforgettable.

While many travelers rush through Scotland hitting only the major tourist spots, this itinerary rewards those who slow down and leave space for the unexpected. From standing on the battlements of Edinburgh Castle to swimming in the crystal-clear Fairy Pools on the Isle of Skye, Scotland offers a fantasy element and sense of adventure unlike anywhere else in Europe.

So grab a cup of coffee, get comfy, and prepare to escape to the wild yet calming beauty of Scotland!

In this episode, you'll learn…

• Why Edinburgh's Old Town is unlike any other European city
• How to experience the Royal Mile's medieval closes and courts 
• Hiking to Arthur's Seat for breathtaking 360-degree views over the entire city
• Why Stirling Castle is arguably more impressive than Edinburgh Castle
• How to drive the spectacular Road to the Isles from Fort William to Mallaig
• The tragic history behind Glencoe's haunting beauty and the 1692 Massacre
• Helpful ferry logistics for reaching the Isle of Skye 
• How to time your visit to the Fairy Pools for minimal crowds and why swimming in ice-cold water is worth it!
• The otherworldly landscapes of the Trotternish Peninsula including the Quiraing and Old Man of Storr
• When is the best times to visit to balance good weather with avoiding peak summer crowds
• Essential Highland driving tips for single-track roads with passing bays and why stopping spontaneously creates the most magical moments

Links & Places Mentioned

• Custom Trip Planning Services
• Edinburgh Castle
• St. Giles' Cathedral (Edinburgh)
• Palace of Holyroodhouse (Edinburgh)
• Arthur's Seat (Edinburgh)
• Dean Village (Edinburgh)
• Stirling Castle
• Loch Lomond (Trossachs National Park)
• Inveraray (Loch Fyne)
• Rannoch Moor
• Glencoe & The Three Sisters
• Glenfinnan Viaduct
• Mallaig (fishing village)
• Isle of Skye
• Fairy Pools (Isle of Skye)
• Portree (Skye capital)
• The Quiraing (Trotternish Peninsula)
• Old Man of Storr (Skye)
• Kilt Rock (Skye)
• Eilean Donan Castle
• Pitlochry (Victorian spa town)

What's next?

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Transcript

SPEAKER_00 0:10

Imagine standing on the battlements of a grand castle built on top of an extinct volcano. Looking out across a city that has been continuously inhabited for over a thousand years. As you walk down from the castle through narrow medieval alleyways, you'll notice the many historical stone buildings, glowing street lamps, cozy pubs, and whiskey bars. Then, only a two-hour drive north, you'll find yourself standing at the edge of a vast valley surrounded by towering mountains, ancient forests, and deep locks. Continue driving and you'll eventually reach a magical island where dramatic rock formations, enchanting waterfalls, and misty skies leave you absolutely spellbound. So, welcome my dear listeners to the fascinating history and spectacular scenery of Scotland! Hello friends and welcome back to Travel with Tyler, your much-needed and very much deserved regular escape to Europe through thoughtfully crafted itineraries and inspiring personal travel stories. Now I am very excited to be sharing this eight-day Scotland itinerary with you, as it's a destination that I hold very close to my heart and somewhere I frequently find myself mentally escaping to when life starts to get just a little too busy. Whether it be the buzzing high street of the country's capital in Edinburgh, or the tranquil dramatic landscapes of its rugged highlands, you simply cannot deny that Scotland has a fantasy element to it, a sense of adventure and true escapism. So for those of you who are considering or maybe even in the midst of planning a trip to Scotland, this episode has been especially designed for you, as I will be mapping out a full eight-day trip that combines time spent in Edinburgh with deep immersion into the Highlands. The whole trip flows from one place to the next like an intentional winding story. Now, eight days is what I consider the minimum to do this journey justice, but you could easily extend it up to 10 or even 12 days, as trust me, you will never run out of things to do in Scotland. That being said, if you are limited to just eight days, well, no need to stress, as this is still plenty of time to see it all. Plus, allow for some of those more quiet and still moments in nature. So if this sounds like your kind of trip, then I suggest you grab a cup of coffee, get comfy, and prepare to escape to the wild yet calming beauty of Scotland. Now, before we get into the details of each day, let's just take a moment to explore why Scotland. And specifically, why this itinerary deserves your time and money. Because if you're going to spend your hard-earned annual leave somewhere, you deserve to know exactly why it's worth it. Starting off with the incredible city of Edinburgh. Believe me when I say it's one of those places that seems almost too cinematic to be real. Imagine a medieval castle set on top of an extinct volcano, connected to a grand street called the Royal Mile that is lined with 16th century buildings tumbling down a steep slope towards the Royal Palace. As you walk along the cobblestone main street, you'll see narrow alleyways shooting off in every direction, some of which are over 500 years old. Follow these tight passages filled with several hundred steps, and you'll leave the old town behind, and enter the new Georgian town, with its wide streets and elegant crescent that rival both London and Bath. Adding to its historical appeal, Edinburgh also served as the intellectual heart of 18th century Europe during a period known as the Scottish Enlightenment. Philosophers, economists, architects, and scientists who lived and worked in the city during this time quite literally changed how the world thinks. It's a city that blends medieval town planning, ghost stories, literature, whiskey, and at times feels like you're walking around a movie set. And then there is the Scottish Highlands. A completely separate kind of experience, and in my opinion, one of the most beautiful places to exist on Earth. The mountains here are not the tallest in Europe, with Scotland's highest being Ben Nevis that stands at just over 1,300 metres, but they still feel enormous because there is nothing between you and them. No forests to soften the view, no buildings to provide any sort of scale, just open sky and ancient rock, and miles and miles of moorlin, stretching in every direction that you look. Other worldly places like Rennick Moor, which we'll pass through on day four, is one of the last great wildernesses in Western Europe, while the area of Glencoe is among the most dramatically beautiful valleys anywhere on the continent. And lastly, the Isle of Sky is in a category of its own, with awe-inspiring landscapes that people travel from every corner of the world to see. Now there are a few more things worth knowing before we get going. And the first is that Scotland has some of the most accessible land in the world, and that's because of the Land Reform Act, which gives walkers the right to roam almost anywhere provided you behave responsibly. This also means that unlike most other countries, the mountains, the moorlands, and the coastlines are all completely open to explore. So make sure to build time into your trip to just wander and go off script. In my personal experience, the best moments in Scotland are always the ones where you just give in to your natural surroundings and leave space and time for the unexpected. In terms of getting to Scotland, Edinburgh is a major international hub with direct flights from cities all over Europe and beyond. Now, this itinerary does require renting a car in order to dive deeper and explore the highlands. However, please don't let that deter you from planning a trip to Scotland, as the country has a very well-connected public transport network of trains and buses. So you can still explore a large portion of the country, but just know that places like the Isle of Sky are a little more remote, so having a car is a major plus. And one final thing, which I say as someone who has spent many years traveling around Europe, Scotland has maintained a spot in my top three countries to visit for several years now. As there is just something completely magical and almost out of this world about the landscapes and atmosphere you will be destined to encounter here. So without delaying any longer, let's begin our eight-day itinerary through Scenic Scotland. Welcome to day one, and we're going to ease into Edinburgh gently. So there is no need to rush or overschedule your day. You can just explore the city at your own pace. Now, if you're flying into Edinburgh Airport, then it's around a 30-minute bus or Uber to reach the city centre. And for those of you arriving by train into Waverley Station, depending on where your accommodation is located, you may be able to walk or for longer distances, I suggest catching an Uber. The old town and the grass market area are great for first-time visitors wanting to be close to all the action. But for those wanting a quieter and more cost-saving option, consider staying further out in either the new town, Dean's Village, and the area surrounding the University of Edinburgh and the meadows. Your one sightseeing goal for today is to walk the length of the Royal Mile. This is a long street that essentially splits the old town in half, going all the way from Edinburgh Castle at the very top of the ridgeline and down to the flat where you'll reach the palace of Holyrood House. Now, this can be a brisk, straightforward walk completed in under half an hour. However, I suggest you take your time to duck down side streets and step inside the many historic buildings and unique shops dotted along the way. As you walk, you'll notice tiny arches on both sides of the road labeled with the word close. These are narrow passageways that often lead into courtyards and down several flights of stairs. From the top, they make for some of the coolest photos, especially on misty mornings or in the early evenings when the street lights begin to turn on. Ladies' Stairs Close is one of my favorites as it leads to the Marker's Court, a beautiful square surrounded by historic stone buildings. The Writers Museum is also located here and is free to enter. The opulent interior and spiral staircase are reason enough to step inside, but for literature lovers, it's also a great spot to brush up on the works of Scotland's most famous writers, including Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Lewis Stevenson. Now, before these closes and courts became romanticized heritage attractions, they originally served as one of the most densely populated places in the world. Imagine people living 15 floors up in buildings that had no sanitation and no light. Edinburgh's old town was notorious for these medieval skyscrapers. And let's just say it wasn't the nicest smelling place to be at the time. As you continue walking along the Royal Mile, you'll notice the many souvenir shops, niche museums, and beautifully decorated pubs and restaurants that line the street. Plus, you're sure to see a busker or two, and I guarantee at least one person playing the bagpipes. Now, some people will say it's touristy, but walking along this historical street to the tune of bagpipes transforms you to an error gone by, and in my opinion, only adds to the magic of your surroundings. There are also plenty of whiskey bars here where you can step inside for a tasting, as well as fudge shops, which, if you ask kindly, will also be happy to give you a sample to try. About a third of the way down the Royal Mile, you'll encounter the imposing facade of St. Giles Cathedral. It is free to enter, however, a lot of walking tours include it as part of their route, so sometimes there is a small line, but thankfully it moves quickly. Inside, you'll be able to see grand arch ceilings and impressive stained glass windows. But the real star of the show is the private Thistle Chapel. It's a tiny jewelbox-like gothic chapel that was only added in 1911, and is incredibly beautiful to see as the craftsmanship and attention to detail is extraordinary. Once you are back outside, you'll be able to stand in the middle of the street and stare all the way back up to Edinburgh Castle, and also all the way down the street where on a clear day you can see a sliver of blue sea in the distance. This is honestly one of my favourite sights in all of Edinburgh, as you really feel like you are part of the city, squish between it all, seeing everything all at once. As you continue walking downhill, you'll notice the pedestrian streets give way to busy roads and more modern buildings. The Scottish Parliament building at the very end of the street is incredibly modern, with a striking geometric design that almost looks out of place in this otherwise historic setting. The Palace of Holyrood House marks your end point, and is a very popular site to visit as it was the 16th century home of the Stuarts, Scotland's royal family. Its most notable resident was in fact Mary Queen of Scots, who stayed there during the 1560s, and references to her influence are visible and mentioned throughout. Present day it is also the official Scottish residence of the British monarch, and inside you can tour royal reception rooms as well as the hauntingly beautiful ruin of Holyrood Abbey. Tickets do sell out, so if this is something you would like to add to your itinerary, then make sure to book well in advance. Next on our itinerary, and only if you've still got time, Carlton Hill is a mere 10 minutes walk from Holyrood House and is the perfect spot to catch the sunset or sunrise if you're an early riser over the city skyline. Beware, it is a very steep incline to reach the top, and on rainy days it can get a little slippery. But I promise the views are worth it as it's easily one of my favourite places in the city. There is a whole loop you can do around the hilltop, allowing you to take in 360-degree views of the city, the coastline, and some pretty cool monuments as well. For dinner, there are plenty of excellent restaurants to choose from. Something that really surprised me in a good way about Edinburgh was the variety and quality of the food available. If you're looking for something proper Scottish, then there is no trumping haggis. This is Scotland's most famous dish, which consists of a savory pudding made from sheep's offal, that is minced together with oatmeal, suet, onions, and spices. It's an acquired taste for sure, but when done right, it can actually be very delicious. A typical side dish is what the Scots like to call meats and tatties, which is mashed turnip and potato. Pair it all with a good Scottish ale, and you will begin to understand why people enjoy eating this, especially in the depths of winter. So with 10,000 plus steps counted and a hearty Scottish dinner to end your first day, it's finally time to say goodnight, as more Edinburgh Exploring awaits us tomorrow. It's now day two, and that means it's time to dive deeper into Edinburgh's highlights and hidden gems. Start your day early with pre-booked tickets to enter Edinburgh Castle. I recommend getting up early and booking for the first available slot of the day so you can skip the major crowds and enjoy parts of the castle all to yourself. The esplanade in front of the castle becomes absolutely packed by mid-morning, so you'll be thankful for setting an early alarm. Inside the castle, you'll visit the crown room, which is where Scotland's crown jewels are housed. These are also the oldest surviving crown jewels in all of the British Isles, and they are displayed alongside the Stone of Destiny. This ancient coronation stone originally belonged to Scottish kings but was taken by England in 1296 and subsequently used for English coronations for the next 700 years. It wasn't until 1996 that the stone was returned to its rightful home in Edinburgh Castle. With so much history, it's a lot to take in, but my favourite thing about the castle is actually the view from the battlements. On a clear morning, you can see the glittering bay in the distance, the many bridges crossing it, and the hills beyond. Plus, the whole city spreads out below you, so you can get a real sense of the scale for just how big Edinburgh is. Following your visit to the castle, you will have some free time to fill with wandering, lunch, and maybe even some shopping. A quick, rapid fire list of places I recommend visiting include Ross Fountain, which sits in the park below the castle and offers, in my opinion, the best views and photo opportunities of the castle. Next up, Victoria Street and Cockburn Street are both beautiful curving cobblestone lanes with colourful painted buildings, cafes, bars, and quirky souvenir shops. Now Victoria Street has also been nicknamed Daigon Alley as it's rumored to have inspired J.K. Rowling's description of the famous street in Harry Potter. In fact, Harry Potter fans will adore Edinburgh, as there are little pockets of inspiration hidden all over the city, including in the nearby Greyfriars Kirkyard Cemetery, where some of the names on the tombstones have also appeared as characters in her books. Come the afternoon, it's time to climb Arthur's seat. The path starts from the base of the mountain in Holyrood Park, located just behind the palace, and takes between 45 minutes and an hour to reach the summit. It's not a very difficult hike, but the track is uneven and a little steep in places, so make sure to wear the correct shoes that support your ankles and have proper grip. I promise your efforts will be rewarded with breathtaking views from the top, allowing you to see the entire city and further towards the sea and rolling green hills beyond. Arthur's Seat is a beautiful place to just sit and reflect on your short but sweet time in Edinburgh. Knowing tomorrow is when you will set out to explore the breathtaking landscapes that exist beyond your line of sight. Now for those of you who are unable or not interested in an hour-long uphill hike, well I have a much easier but still equally beautiful alternative, and that's Dean Village. Accessible by walking or hopping on a short urban bus, Dean Village is a stunning part of the city that looks almost stuck in time, with heritage listed houses and active water mills. There is also a calm river which flows through the village and is surrounded by lush green walking paths. Now it's not so much of a hidden gem these days, as the main bridge does get packed with tourists trying to get their essential Instagram photo. But thankfully, there are enough quiet streets and surrounding parks where you can get away from the crowds if needed. Now Dean Village also backs onto Edinburgh New Town, which was designed in the 1760s and is one of the finest examples of Georgian urban planning in the world. Imagine wide streets, grand crescents, elegant townhouses, and private gardens. So if you've got time, it's a lovely place to just walk around and check out some of the unique architecture. For dinner tonight, I suggest staying in the new town, where you can find a restaurant on George Street or close to Charlotte Square. Then to finish off this perfect day, choose between an evening of tasting whiskey in one of Edinburgh's finest whiskey pubs, or book in for a ghost tour. They say Edinburgh is one of the most haunted cities in the world, so it really is the best place to dive into all things spooky and scary. But before that, you'll need to collect your rental car from the city centre or Edinburgh Airport. Personally, I prefer to pick up from the airport as you can be on the open road in minutes, whereas from the city centre, it can take half an hour of navigating just city streets before you even reach the highway. This first stretch of driving is thankfully quite short, between 35 to 40 minutes and takes you through the wide agricultural plains of the Fourth Valley. You'll know you're almost there when Stirling Castle appears standing tall on a rock above the city. Like Edinburgh Castle, Stirling Castle also sits on top of a volcanic craig. But there's a strong argument that it has even more strategic significance. For centuries, the Fourth River was only crossable here in Stirling, which meant that whoever held Stirling Castle controlled movement between the north and the south of Scotland. So that means that almost every major event in Scottish history from the Wars of Independence and onwards passed through this very place. Scottish historical figures like William Wallace, Robert the Bruce, and Mary Queen of Scots all have deep connections to Stirling Castle. Now the castle itself is extraordinary. Many would say it's even more impressive than Edinburgh Castle, and in truth it really is. The Great Hall ceiling has been restored to its original ochre colour and is one of the finest medieval halls in the British Isles. History buffs could easily spend hours here, but for most visitors, an hour or two is more than enough. From Sterling, You can start driving west into the incredibly scenic Trussocks National Park. Now the Trussecks are considered the southern gateway to the highlands and is the point where the gentle farmland and woodland of Lower Scotland begin to give way to something wilder and more rugged. You'll notice as the road begins to wind towards Loch Lamont that the landscape starts to shift. The mountains get bigger, the sky gets wider, and something in the air changes. Plan to stop along the eastern shore of Loch Lamont. Here you can park the car and walk down to the water's edge. Loch Lamon is the largest freshwater lock in all of Great Britain. It's 24 miles long, 5 miles wide at its broadest point, and in certain places over 600 feet deep. The mountains you see just across the water are the beginning of the true highlands. So take a moment to stand at the edge and soak it all in. Tonight you can either stay near the loch as there are some wonderful boutique hotels located along its shores, or you can push on a little bit further west to the town of Inverary. Now, Inverary is a perfectly preserved 18th century town that was built entirely in white painted stone. Its location on the loch is truly incredible, plus, with a castle and mountains everywhere you look, it's honestly one of the prettiest towns in Scotland. And for dinner tonight, you simply cannot pass on trying some of the local fresh seafood, from oysters to smoked salmon and langustines, which are like a small, slim, pale-coloured orange lobster or a large clawed prawn. But you can rest assured, as no matter what you choose, it is sure to be incredibly fresh and delicious. Welcome to day four, and it's time to dive even deeper into the highlands. Today's adventures take us to two of the most extraordinary landscapes in all of Scotland. One is already quite famous, and the other is a little more off the radar. But I promise both will stay with you long after you leave Scotland. The drive north from Loch Lamont towards our first stop of the day at Rennick Moor takes you past several other locks, castle ruins, and waterfalls, eventually opening up to a vast ancient blanket bog that covers 56 square miles of the central highlands. It has no towns, no villages, almost no roads, and very few people. But what it does have is an almost incomprehensible sense of space and absolute silence. The only road crosses it on a single elevated causeway, and on either side the scenery stretches for miles. There are multiple viewpoints to stop along the way, and if the weather's nice plus you've prepared ahead of time, then it's also a beautiful spot to stop for a picnic. Enjoy the silence and take in the stunning Highland views. When you're ready to continue your journey, hop back in the car and begin driving towards Glencoe. Now I really want to try and describe what it's like to travel into the pass of Glencoe for the first time, as it truly is a magical place. First off, you'll encounter the Three Sisters, which are these three enormous rocks that jump upwards from the valley floor and almost wrap around the road. The scale is astounding, and even on a grey day, which there are a lot of those in Scotland, the tops of the rocks may be covered in low-lying cloud, but the rushing stream below is still a breathtaking sight. There are also some wonderful walks to do in the area, so if you're lucky and the weather is good, plus you've packed the right hiking boots, then I highly recommend making the effort to get out of the car and into the spectacular slice of Scottish nature. From the Three Sisters, it's only a 10-minute drive to reach Glencoe, and no matter which direction you look, the views are stunning, with sparse steep mountains and bubbling crystal clear streams. Then, as you arrive in Glencoe, the mountains give way to a sparkling lock, with, you guessed it, more mountains in the distance. Now, I actually visited Glenko for the first time in the middle of winter, and with the mountains covered in snow, the landscapes looked incredibly similar to what I had seen in northern Norway. Well, fun fact, this is because both the Scottish Highlands and Norway's mountainous coastline actually share a geological origin as part of the ancient Chaldenide mountain chain. Now, the reason Glencoe is so well known is because of what happened there in February 1692, historically referred to as the Massacre of Glencoe. This tragic event saw 38 members of the MacDonald clan murdered in their beds by government soldiers who had already accepted their hospitality to stay. Understandably, this violent betrayal has remained an important part of the town's history. And even if you don't know all the details of the story, you can't help but feel there is a darkness looming over this landscape. For tonight's accommodation, I suggest you find a cozy inn or hotel located on a nearby lock or in the surrounding hills. Some of the most memorable moments of your entire trip will be those late sunsets and early sunrises over the highlands, with a warm coffee or glass of wine in hand, simply stopping to observe and letting it all soak in. Because today we take the spectacular road to the Isles. You'll need to follow the A20 Road north from Glencoe to Fort Williams, and then switch to the incredibly scenic A830 Road, which heads west towards the very last town on the coast called Maleg. Only 20 minutes after passing through Fort Williams, you'll arrive at the first stop of the day, the Glen Finan Viaduct. Imagine a railway bridge made up of 21 curved arches that sweeps across the glen, high above the River Finn and with Loch Shield stretching away in the distance towards the open seas. The viaduct was built in 1898 and is a masterpiece of Victorian engineering. But that's actually not why it's famous. The main draw card for most visitors is the fact it was featured in four of the Harry Potter films as part of the route taken by the Hogwarts Express. And while sadly there is no Hogwarts Express train passing through here, there is, however, the original Jacobite steam train, which departs from Fort Williams and passes over the viaduct four times per day in peak season and only twice in off season. Tickets to ride the train are in high demand and do sell out four to six months in advance. Now if you're not particularly fazed about seeing the train pass by, then I suggest you go early in the morning, before the day trip crowds arrive in their busloads from Edinburgh and Glasgow, turning this idyllic setting into more of a modern-day theme park. While you're here, you should also walk down to the shore of Loch Shiel and visit the Glen Finan Monument. It marks a spot where Charles Edward Stewart raised his standard in August 1745 and rallied the Highland clans to his side in the last Jacobite Uprising. The monument stands on the shore in one of the most romantically beautiful settings imaginable, and yet what started here ended in disaster, only one year later at the battlefields of Cullodon. This devastating loss to the British effectively ended in the destruction of the Highland clan system and initiated a harsh, systematic suppression of all Scottish Highland culture. Traditions, legends, the way of life, and even the language were almost completely lost. Then, as you continue driving northwest, you'll eventually reach the silver stands of Mora, where you'll encounter several white sand beaches with turquoise clear water that looks so inviting. But don't be fooled as it's freezing cold year round. From the shore, you'll also be able to see three of the small aisles. And only on a super clear day, you may also be able to see all the way out to the outer Hebrides Islands. Now, if the weather's nice, then take a walk along the beach and dip your toes in the water just to test how cold it really is. This is honestly one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in all of Europe, yet very few people know it exists. As the sun starts to set, end your day in Malig. This small working fishing village is the very last stop on the road, and your only way to continue westward is by ferry. So you'll need to stay overnight in either a small guest house or coastal cottage. For dinner, you can wander into the town and eat whatever was freshly caught that day. Plus, you'll want to make sure you get a good sleep tonight, as tomorrow we're heading to the Isle of Skye. Welcome to day six, and we're starting bright and early by catching the ferry from Malig to Armadale on the Isle of Sky. The crossing takes about 30 minutes, and on a clear morning with the mountains of sky rising out of the sea in front of you and the mainland receding behind you, it's one of the most memorable 30 minutes you'll spend in all of Scotland. Now the ferry schedule does change depending on the season and weather conditions, so make sure to do lots of research and lock in your tickets well in advance. After touching down on Sky, begin your island explorations by driving north from Armadale and up through the Sleep Peninsula. This area is often referred to as the Garden of Sky for its large variety of plants and unusual lushness. Continue driving northwest towards Sligaton, where as you round a bend in the road, the Kulin Ridge will appear, and if it's even partially clear, you'll want to stop for lots of photos. The Black Kulin is a jagged serrated ridge of dark rock that rises vertically from the glen floor. The light falls differently on these mountains at different times of the day and in different weather, yet every version of them is extraordinary. Your next stop is at the old Sligatin Bridge. This 200-year-old stone bridge curves over the river, and on a perfect still day, the Kulin Peak is reflected in the water. Now the Sligatchen Hotel, located next to the bridge, has been feeding and sheltering walkers and mountaineers since 1830. So it's the ideal spot to stop for a coffee and grab something to eat, allowing you to linger longer and enjoy the landscapes changing with the weather. In the afternoon, drive 20 minutes around to Glen Brittle, your starting point to walk up to the island's famous fairy pools. The path takes you uphill past a series of cascading waterfalls, which create pools of water that are the most astonishing shade of blue-green. The water is also incredibly clear, and I mean that you can seriously see every pebble on the bottom of the pools. The black coolin is always towering above you as you walk, and it's easily one of the most magical walks in Scotland. You can also swim in the fairy pools if you're feeling brave enough, and I wholeheartedly recommend that you do. The water is very cold, so think of it as more of a cold plunge, as you won't need to stay for very long to get that spiky and warm feeling all over your skin. It's a little bit of discomfort that is absolutely worth it for the fact that you can always say you went swimming in the fairy pools on the Isle of Sky. Now the fairy pools are very popular and they can be especially busy during the summer months. So for the best experience, make sure to time your visit right. Before 10am is best for minimal crowds, but for warmer swimming conditions and still manageable crowds, it's better to go after 3 p.m. Following your refreshing dip in the ice cold ferry pools, it's time to head to your accommodation for the night. Portry is Sky's small and colourful capital. The harbour is brightly surrounded by pastel-painted houses, and there are plenty of fabulous restaurants overlooking the water. But if you're looking for a more remote, tranquil setting, then there are endless options for cozy cabins, welcoming inns, and glamorous guest houses. You really are spoiled for choice when it comes to choosing unique and memorable places to stay on the Isle of Skye. It's now day 7 and your second day on the Isle of Sky. Today we are going north into the dramatic coastline and breathtaking landscapes of the Trottonish Peninsula, where the island's most famous landmarks await. The Trottanish Ridge is a 200-mile-long escarpment of volcanic rock that runs the entire length of this peninsula. Its appearance has changed drastically over thousands of years thanks to the geological instability of the cliffs, triggering massive landslides that have resulted in a series of bizarre, fractured, almost alien-like landscapes. The most dramatic of these is the Quarrain, which is an otherworldly area of tilted grass plateaus, sheer rock pinnacles, and towering needles of basalt. The walk into the Quarrain from the road is not too difficult and takes about an hour. Now I want to say something about the weather because most people are very nervous about travelling in Scotland and particularly on sky, which is famous for being especially wet. The main thing to remember is that there are pros to all types of weather. Overcast days and light rain bring mist and mystery. The landscape feels vast and like something out of a fantasy novel. While clear sunshine field days are also lovely for obvious reasons, but don't discount a foggy day as it can be extraordinary in its own unique way. After walking along the Korain Trail and returning to your car, it's time to drive south along the eastern coast to check out the next two geological sites. The first is called Kilt Rock, and it's rather cool. From the viewpoint, you can see the cliff face, which is crossed by vertical basalt columns that look almost like the pleats of a kilt. It's a rather fitting name for a Scottish cliff and is made even more beautiful by the waterfall that drops directly into the sea 60 meters below. Next, and only a short drive down the road is the Old Man of Store. It's the most iconic sight on Sky and is a large, oddly shaped black basalt pinnacle that stands watch over the island. The walk up to the base of the old man takes about 45 minutes, and the views across the water to the mainland are just incredible. Now, if you still have a little bit of time left in your day and you are not already staying in Portry, then I highly recommend allocating an hour to just wander around this cute island capital. There are lots of great cafes serving steaming cups of coffee and local shops offering up unique souvenirs. Then for your final night on Sky, I suggest you spend it just soaking in the peaceful surroundings. And it doesn't matter if you visit only for a day or stay for an entire week. The magic of Sky is impossible to miss. You will feel it the second you arrive and in every moment thereafter. There truly is something very special about this place, and no matter how much time passes, it will always continue to call you back. So we have officially arrived at day 8, our last and final day in the Highlands. The journey back to Edinburgh is a long one, so you'll need to get started early. Begin by saying farewell to the Isle of Sky and returning to the mainland by crossing the Sky Bridge. Only 15 minutes down the road, and you'll be greeted by the enchanting side of Eileen Donning Castle. Perched on a rocky small island and connected to the mainland by a charming stone footbridge, this has to be one of the most beautiful castles in all of Scotland. You can purchase tickets to go inside, but even just walking along the bridge and around the castle is a worthwhile reason to stop. When you're ready, hop back in the car and continue driving east for the next two hours, where you'll pass the tranquil beauty of Loch Clooney, before diverting south and connecting to the A9 Road, which takes you through the Dromocta Pass, otherwise known as the highest point on any major road in Britain. The road curves along the edge of the Can Gorms National Park and marks your scenery change from sparse rugged mountain peaks to leafy forests and rolling hills. Now for whiskey lovers, the Dalwinie Distillery is also located along this road and is the ideal spot to stop for a tour, tasting, and to grab a bottle to take home. The Scottish like to say that every person has their own personal whiskey. And if you don't like whiskey, well you just haven't found the right one. With over 150 distilleries to choose from, including one located on the Isle of Sky, perhaps you'll find your whiskey during your visit to Scotland. Less than an hour's drive later, and you'll arrive in the charming Victorian spa town of Pitlockery. It's the perfect place to stop for lunch with lots of excellent restaurants and excellent whiskey-flavoured ice cream. There are also plenty of souvenir shops dotted along its high street in case you're in need of a last-minute token to remember your travels. For those wanting to break up the drive and add an extra night to your Scotland trip, Pitlockery is the perfect place, with cozy accommodations and beautiful forest walks. Otherwise, for those committing to the full distance, the drive to Edinburgh from Pitlockery takes about an hour and a half. Perhaps you'll spend one more night in the city before you depart or opt for a hotel close to the airport so you can catch your early morning flight with minimal stress. No matter the logistics and how your journey comes to an end, I'm certain you'll look back on your trip to Scotland with fond memories and a twinkle in your eyes. Because traveling around Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands isn't just about ticking off sights and must see places. Instead, it's about a feeling, a sense of vastness, and a deep inner knowing that you are experiencing something far greater and grandeur than you can even begin to understand. And I promise that no matter how many miles or years you put between visits, Scotland really, truly never leaves you. Okay, now before you run off and start comparing intimate inns with loch views and cozy cottages overlooking the highlands, let's just cover some of the practicalities you'll need to know in order to organise a trip to Scotland. Starting off with your arrival and actually getting there. For most international visitors, Edinburgh Airport is your gateway and offers direct connections to most major European cities and an increasing number of transatlantic routes. The airport is only 8 miles from the city centre and you can navigate it by public tram or bus. But personally, I always find an Uber or taxi to be the most stress-free when arriving in a new country. Now, if you are flying into London first and planning to do some English exploring before, I have actually already done an episode covering all the details of an amazing eight-day England itinerary. So I highly recommend you go and check that out as well. But in terms of getting to Edinburgh from London, there are regular direct trains departing from London, King Cross Station, and arriving into Edinburgh Waverley Station that take around 4.5 hours. It's an incredibly scenic journey and one I definitely recommend taking. Once you're in Edinburgh, you should be fine navigating the city by a combination of walking, public transport, and the occasional Uber. However, for this itinerary, you absolutely need a car from day three onwards. Hiring a car from Edinburgh Airport or the city centre is pretty straightforward, and I'd recommend booking early. To have the largest variety and best prices to choose from, especially if you are traveling in peak seasons like summer or around the New Year's. Now remember, in the UK, they drive on the left. So this is easy for Australian and New Zealand travelers, but does require a bit of practice to get used to for North American and most European travelers. One thing worth noting about the Highland roads is that many of them are essentially one lane but built for two-way traffic, with small bays every few hundred meters where you can pull in to let oncoming vehicles pass. It sounds stressful, but after you've conquered a few, it becomes second nature. Now I will say that visiting Scotland and the Highlands is not impossible without a car, it just changes. For example, you can still reach places like Fort Williams and Inverness by train, but you will need to rely on organised tours and day trips to take you further out to places like the Isle of Sky. The main benefit of having a car in Scotland is being able to enjoy the scenery, slow down, stop along the way, and explore places that are a little harder to get to. Because that's where the real magic of Scotland awaits. The next thing to consider when planning your Scottish adventures is when to go. May, June, and September are my personal picks for this itinerary. The weather is at its most reliably pleasant, the days are long, especially in June, and Edinburgh doesn't get properly dark until after 10 pm. Plus, while the main sites are busy, the highlands are vast enough to absorb the majority of visitors without ever feeling overcrowded. July and August are definitely peak season, so the ferry pools and the old man of store on the Isle of Sky can get incredibly busy, especially on summer weekends. But if you plan ahead and arrive early, then you'll still be able to find little slices of silence amidst all the chaos. The long evenings in high summer are something very special and almost worth conquering the crowds for longer days to hike, swim, and explore. Also, it is worth noting that in spring, so that's March, April, and May, the Scottish landscape becomes a sea of bright yellow as the beautiful gorse flowers dot the hillsides and are famously known for their distinct coconut-like scent. There may still be around in early June, but they definitely peak during the spring. Speaking of vivid colours, autumn is an absolute dream in Scotland. The temperatures do drop, so you'll need to layer up more, and the sky does darken earlier. But it's worth it to see the perfectly painted landscapes with bright oranges, reds, and yellows. Autumn colours really peak during the second half of October, and hiking is especially magical during this time. Plus, you're guaranteed to get some seriously epic photos. Now, winter is an entirely different proposition as the highlands in winter are dramatic, wild, and extraordinarily beautiful. But if you're not a competent driver on snow and ice, then it can get a little sketchy. That being said, Edinburgh in winter is unlike any other city, especially around Hogmany, which is the Scottish New Year. The Fire Torch parade and famous street party in the city centre really should be experienced at least once in your lifetime. In fact, this past New Year's, I spent a week in Edinburgh with my mum, and wow, it was an incredible experience. I will never ever forget what it felt like to stand in that massive crowd, counting down till midnight and watching the fireworks erupt over Edinburgh Castle. So, to recap, a winter trip to Scotland isn't entirely out of the question. It just becomes a little more difficult to navigate with icy roads, shorter days, and sometimes the ferry to sky can be cancelled due to bad weather. Honestly, you can visit Scotland in any season and it will still be magical, incredible, and breathtakingly beautiful. But it's important to note that each season does have its pros and cons, plus something different and unique to offer. So do your own comparison and make sure to pick the season that best suits you. Another important thing to consider is where to stay during your travels. Now for Edinburgh, I think I mentioned at the very start that the old town or the grass market area is great for the experience of being right in the middle of the medieval city. But for quieter and more affordable areas, consider the new town, Dean Village, and the area surrounding Edinburgh University and the meadows. Then, as you travel north, your accommodation options will open up significantly, as you will be spending most nights in a different place. So take advantage of it and try out some different types of accommodations. You can really mix and match, with a boutique hotel on Loc Lamon, followed by a cozy BB somewhere near Glencoe, maybe a guest house in Malig, and perhaps a charming cabin on the Isle of Sky. Your options are truly endless, but they do sell out fast in the summer months, so make sure to book well in advance. Now, as a general rule in the Highlands, I strongly encourage you to choose small independent accommodations over large hotel chains wherever possible. This is because Scottish BNBs are excellent and most are family run. Plus, the hosts will be able to share local knowledge and insights that no guidebook or even a travel podcast can truly match. Moving on, and if you've been listening to some of my past podcast episodes, you'll know that no trip plan is complete without factoring in all the delicious food to try in each unique region and country. Scotland has been experiencing a quiet food revolution, and it's a delightful surprise for most first-time visitors. Starting with the basics, Scotland has so many locks and a long wild coastline, so it makes sense that the seafood here is top tier. From some of the world's finest smoked salmon to crabs and oysters, seafood lovers will be an absolute heaven. You also cannot overlook what's on offer inland, as the quality of Highland beef and lamb are both exceptional. Haggis, which I briefly mentioned earlier, is considered the most quintessential Scottish dish, so it's certainly worth trying at some point during your trip. Although I can't promise that you will like it. Next, in terms of Scottish dessert, you really can't miss Cranicun, which is made with whipped cream, oats, raspberries, and whiskey. Now, on the subject of whiskey, this itinerary takes you through some of the greatest whiskey producing regions in Scotland. The distilleries of Perthshire, the Spayside region, and even the one distillery located on the Isle of Sky are all worth a visit if you have time to spare. And even if you don't consider yourself a whiskey drinker, well, I'd still encourage you to do a tasting. Okay, so we've covered most of the practicalities, but we've still got a few more to go. Starting off with drinking the tap water in Scotland. You'll be happy to know that the Highlands have some of the cleanest and best tasting water in the world. Since you're literally drinking water that has fallen as rain onto the moorland with no agriculture, no industry, and no contamination of any kind. So make sure to bring a reusable water bottle and fill it up everywhere you go. Now I'm sure there are some animals you are very excited to see in Scotland, for instance, the adorable Highland cows that are famous for their unique and fluffy coats. There are unfortunately some animals that I don't think you will be as excited to see, and that's the midges. These tiny biting insects travel in clouds and often appear in places with calm, humid conditions, near still bodies of water, and around dawn and dusk. Now in Scotland, they are at their worst between the months of June and September, especially along the west coast and on the Isle of Sky. So my top tip if you are traveling through the Highlands during this time is to bring a strong repellent that's specifically designed to fight off midges, not just mosquitoes. And while they will not ruin your trip, they do make for an uncomfortable night's sleep and tend to itch for days after. Other issues you may encounter in the Highlands include a lack of mobile phone signal as the network can be patchy and in some places non-existent. To avoid problems, I recommend downloading your maps offline before you leave your accommodation. Same goes for when you go on a hike, as it's easy to get lost in these wild landscapes. Now, my one final tip, and this is perhaps the most important thing I can tell you about driving around the highlands, and that is to stop whenever you feel the urge to. Scotland's landscapes are wild and full of surprises. Well, what a magical eight days we've had exploring Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands, from the medieval old town of the capital to the white sand beaches along the road to the Isles, the alien landscapes of sky, and the crystal clear fairy pools. I have spent this entire episode trying to do justice to a landscape and a city that has completely stolen my heart. And I sincerely hope some of that magic has managed to translate across. Now, if you'd like to access the full written itinerary for this trip, including all my favorite places to stay, restaurants, bars, guided tours, and hikes, make sure to visit my website, that's travelwithler.com, where you'll find this eight-day Scotland itinerary available to purchase along with every itinerary featured on the podcast. Plus, if you enjoyed this episode, please remember to follow the show, leave a review, and share it with the person you know is dreaming of a trip to Scotland. Next episode is going to be a fun one as I'll be sharing everything you need to know about the annual Eurovision Song Contest, including what is it, why is it so special, which countries participate, and how to watch. Until then, keep dreaming, keep exploring, and keep your European wonderless alive!